COOKTOWN

OK – yes, I have been very slow at updating the blog. My apologies everyone! We went without phone reception for ages out west, then we’ve been busy having adventures. However, it’s now time to begin our return journey home for Christmas, so I better update it before I need to add the south-ward escapades!! 

Well the heat so far has sometimes been intense, but woah.... we must have crossed some other invisible line on the highway as we were heading to our northernmost point, because all of a sudden we were in the extremely steamy tropics. By the time we had set up the van at Cooktown, Conrad and I were both drenched in sweat and feeling like we’d been breathing through a hot sock for the last hour or so. It just didn’t let up the whole time we were here. When you got to the coast, I mean right on the water, it became somewhat bearable, but the humidity was off the chart to anything we had experienced so far. One upshot of this time of year is the tropical fruit. The park we stayed at was overflowing with hundreds of ripe mangoes... yum!

The girls hanging out with the Cap'n.
At the start of the journey, I really wanted to go all the way to the top of Australia. You know, to stand at the little sign that said “you are standing at the northernmost point of Australia”. That’s before I found out that Cape York is a massive, savage, barely inhabited, steamy mud track that doesn’t accommodate a caravan and barely accommodates humans! (slight exaggeration). So I compromised and said we really need to get to Cooktown at least. The girls had been learning about Captain Cook and his adventures and I thought this area would really cement some of that information. It sure did! We started with Captain Cook lookout. This is situated at the head of the Endeavour River, where Cook limped in with his busted ship all those years ago.
The actual mouth of the Endeavour River, now marked by a look-out
and lighthouse, haven't really changed too much since James saw it all those years ago.

Except for one little, smiley critter.
Next on the historical trek, was the Captain James Cook Museum. These guys have an ingenious artefact finding sheet for kids that makes the museum like a game. Stuff like “somewhere in the Endeavour gallery is a golden key salvaged from the..... can you find it?”. I was also fascinated by the incredible building that housed the museum. Originally a convent, this stunning 19th century building had soaring ceilings, beautiful moldings and amazing stories.

The Captain Cook Museum housed in the beautiful old Convent building.
Scale model of the Endeavour. I loved the quote by Charles Darwin on the wall near it...
 "The voyage of Captain Cook added a hemisphere to the world".
While visiting the Captain Cook memorial in the foreshore park and sitting on one of the Endeavour canons, we came across the “Musical Ship”. If I hadn’t already seen The Musical Fence, I would have been gob-smacked, as it was I was still pretty blown away. This is an impressive collection of recycled poly-pipe, stainless steel and aluminium that have been fashioned into actual tuned instruments in a ship sculpture. There’s marimbas, xylophones, chimes and even a doof doof (base drum!).


Cooktown's Musical Ship.
Check out the poly pipe marimba around the stern.
The three musketeers go ballistic.
Perhaps the most amazing sight in Cooktown was our real honest-to-goodness, right-in-front-of-us sighting of a crocodile swimming along the foreshore. Even though you see the croc signs everywhere, and we haven’t even stuck a toe in the water up here, it’s still quite a shock to see a real life specimen coast by. We all scrambled to get our cameras out, but only managed to get him going back under.

No that's not a log kids.
The other footpath got eaten!
While we still had that Steve Irwin feeling, we decided to go exploring down a dirt road to see Finch Bay.  Minus the croc tracks, this was like a scene out of that movie Castaway. Something tells me that Tom Hanks (or Wilson for that matter) mightn’t have made it 4 years here!


This is the pretty angle out to sea, not the
croc-infested swampy bit behind us.
Once you got away from the pretty coast road, it really did feel like we were heading back to the outback on the trip to and from Cooktown. There were long stretches of red dirt-lined road and some massive ant hills. The other incredible sight we encountered on this stretch, was Black Mountain. As you drive down the Mulligan Highway, you notice these funny coloured mountains emerge from the horizon. As you get closer you realise they are made up of massive black granite boulders, some the size of small houses, all piled on top of one another!! 
That whole of black mountain is made up of those rocks in front.
Is that a sumo farmer? ...the abominable snowman? No just a
freakishly huge, man-shaped ant hill!!

CAIRNS

During our journey so far we have gravitated towards Big 4 Caravan Parks, due to our membership, but also due to the facilities and activities they have for the girls. We were in for a treat for our next Big 4 stay, as Cairns is home to a Big4 park that is ranked 10th in the world. This place was off the dial! It had its own restaurant, mini-shop, water park and the world’s largest jumping pillow!
Quick Lil, I'll save you from that bucket tidal wave.

Again mum... that was so much fun! 

The travelling Jacksons perform their routine balancing act.

Ok, who do you think had the most fun on the world's largest jumping pillow?

One of the things we were looking forward to in Cairns was the scenic railway and the skyrail that takes you up over the rainforest canopy. It turns out, these are both really expensive. So we gave the girls the choice – train or skyrail. They chose the train. I was really keen for this too, as I remember my Mum and Dad speaking about this railway from their honeymoon. There were some amazing sights as we wound our way up the mountain, past the Baron Gorge and up to the little village of Kuranda in the treetops.
The historical Kuranda scenic train.

A gobsmacked Lily forgetting she wanted a photo of that waterfall.

The quick stop off at Baron Gorge brings a smile to Ellysia's face.

While in Kuranda, it was time to tick off the list something I had not been looking forward to! Back when we were preparing for our journey, we sat down with the girls and showed them all our Queensland travel books. We gave them sticky notes and said they could choose 6 things (to start with) that they really wanted to see. Much to my horror, Ellysia’s first sticky note went straight on to the Australian Venom Zoo in Kuranda, ugh! So after some window shopping along the quaint little main street, we wandered up to the Venom Zoo. The girls were thrilled to see all the snakes and spiders and other creepy crawlies. I just stayed at the back and cringed, and when the time came, said “no thanks, nice man with the pony tail, I do not want to hold that snake!”.... but of course, everyone else in the family did! Even Lily – which was a shock.
Wow, he's heavy mum.

Our fearless leader proves that snakes are no match for his bravery.

Lily didn't even blink, she stood very still, smiled and handed
the snake straight back... my brave girl.

Next on the agenda in Kuranda was the Army Duck tours through the rainforest. An innovative place called Rainforestation provide brilliant tours through the dense tropical rainforest in re-purposed, open-air Army Ducks. We had a hilarious lady tour guide who was an expert at negotiating some pretty slippery, muddy hills and wrestling this antique into gear. She was an absolute wealth of information on the plants and animals in the rainforest.
The amazing, amphibious ex-army ducks can go anywhere.

Our brilliant tour guide.

While in Cairns, we took the opportunity to catch up with our friends Max and Miriam and their two adorable boys. Even though we haven’t seen these for a few years, it felt like only yesterday we’d caught up. We had a fantastic night with these guys catching up and hanging out. Miriam and I went to lunch the next day, just for girls time!
 
The lovely Max and Miriam.
The other memorable thing that happened in Cairns, was my birthday. I was treated to a night at the ‘L.E.D Restaurant’ (L-Lily, E-Ellysia, D-Daddy). I was given an impressive menu to choose from and waited on like a princess! Earlier in the day we all had a giggle with some snorkelling lessons.
Lily snorkelling like a pro.

Thanks for the pressies my little cherubs!


Now it was time to head on to the last stop of our north-ward journey, Cooktown. We decided to take the coast road and check out Port Douglas as well. The locals had told us about this amazing stretch of road and the brochures described it as the Qld equivalent of the Great Ocean Road, but oh my goodness, it was breathtaking!
A beautiful day on the road to Port Douglas.

The coastal drive was spectacular.

I feel like I'm in a holiday ad... "kiss me Katoot".

TOWNSVILLE

On to one of our favourite spots yet – beautiful Townsville! We were blessed to find an amazing spot usually reserved for campers. The park lady said we were fine to give it a go, if we’d fit! So with some clever manoeuvring from Daddy we wrangled our gargantuan motorcade into the private little sanctuary, complete with a “forest tree" (as Lily called it) and a view right out to Magnetic Island.
It's a bit dark in the photo, but that's water out past the fence.
The "forest tree".
The "forest tree" plus some natives.

Townsville is an amazing city. Conrad and I really loved the vibe of this place. It is one of those places that wraps around the coast, and seems to run at a relaxed, laid-back pace. One of the most picturesque spots is “The Strand”. A beachfront foreshore that has been completely decked out with some unbelievable stuff. Nearly 2.5km of wide bike paths meander past cafes, shady little picnic benches, a bunch of funky exercise equipment and some  incredible kids’ parks. Up one end is a man-made lagoon and half-way along is the piece de resistance.... the water park!
The view down the  foreshore path along The Strand at Townsville.
The unbelievable free water park at The Strand.
Yihaa, that huge bucket of water is gonna land on my head!

Even though it feels like we have seen more museums in the last 6 weeks than Conrad and I have seen in our lifetimes, we are so glad we didn’t miss the Museum of Tropical Queensland. This is a really brilliant, hands-on museum that kids (and big kids) really love. In fitting with our Dinosaur themed adventures to date, the museum boasted an “Explore-a-saurus” exhibit... yay. They also had an interesting area called “Come Hell or High Water” that explored how cyclones have shaped this area of Qld, complete with a room that helped you to ‘experience a cyclone’. This was slightly freaky!
A display highlighting how dinosaurs use camouflage. Seriously, you can't even tell I'm there!

The museum itself was built to house a full-sized replica of a portion of the HMS Pandora. There is a gallery devoted to artefacts discovered from the Pandora wreck. Most interesting of all, is the area where the museum demonstrates the firing of a replica canon from the ship. The girls were picked to be deckhands for the demonstration.
Ahoy there me hearties, look sharp and fire that canon!

Our smallest crew member experiencing the leg irons.
While we were visiting this lovely corner of the world, we decided to check out church on Sunday. We went to the local C3 Church whose building is undergoing some hefty renovations. They were incredibly welcoming and the girls had a great time with the kids. 

HUGHENDEN

This was our quickest stop yet, just the one night. There were only a few attractions in little Hughenden and we were starting to really get over the heat, so we decided to make it a brief but memorable stop.

First on the list was the town’s giant windmill (of course!). This 35ft Comet windmill is one of the largest of its kind ever made in Oz. Back when it was a working windmill on ‘Wirilla’ Station it could pump, with just an average wind, in excess of 1 million litres per day, as much as 69 litres of water per rotation!!
The huge Comet windmill in the middle of town.
Hughenden was our last stop on the outback Queensland dinosaur trail, so we had to make sure we saw Mutt (the life-sized statue of the Muttaburasaurus that was discovered in this region a few years ago).
Aaah lookout there's a dinosaur behind you!!
The Hughenden Discovery centre also had some cool dinosaur stuff, as well as some amazing historical artefacts from the local region.  A stroll down the road revealed some incredible sculptural art.
The centrepiece of the Hughenden Discovery Centre.

Any farmer would think this was a travesty... but what an impressive bus stop!

The 2 explorers beside some Mutt art.
You can’t pass through this town without checking out the FJ Holden Cafe. You’d think that this cafe was named after the famous car, not so. It’s name originated from the two owners – Frank and Jan Holden. Although the enterprising Holdens have also got a huge collection of 50s, 60s and 70s car memorabilia that features, of course, the iconic Australian FJ Holden.
Conrad sent this picture to our parents with the caption
"I finally got Jo in the backseat of a Monaro"..... hmmmm.
One of the most amazing sights in this region is the stunning Porcupine Gorge. Tucked away in a National Park about an hour out of town, is the landmark that is referred to as Australia’s Grand Canyon. Surrounded by scrub that gives no indication of the treasure hidden inside until you get right to the edge, Porcupine Gorge is quite a sight to behold. Carved by years of wet season rains, the canyon reveals layers of beautiful coloured sandstone cliffs that tower above the creek below. Seeing as we were visiting at the end of the dry season, there were only a handful of sad little waterholes and very, very dry bush in the creek bed. I’m sure this would be an even more incredible sight in the middle of the wet season. Of course no water, only cliffs are required to create the perfect ‘koo-ee’, and that’s exactly what the girls did for oh, at least half an hour!!

The picture doesn't do it justice, but the
gorge was quite deep.
My 3rd child ignoring the "do not walk near the
edge of the cliff" warning.



Now it’s time to get back to civilisation – and by that I mean the coast! Please God I need a cool breeze! There’s just one more stop on the outback trail to make and we did this one in a flash. It was the historical town of Charters Towers about 140km inland from Townsville. Established on a new gold field in the 1870s, this town went on to become one of the first inland ‘cities’ in Queensland. The thriving city boasted well-formed streets,  underground electricity and some 65 hotels. There are so many beautiful, historical buildings in this place, it was hard to know where to point the camera first!
Beautiful, historical Charters Towers.

This was the Charters Towers National Bank. The local 'ol NAB doesn't
quite look like this these days!

abcs